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HOME arrow STREETLIFE arrow Mandondo - Food for the gods (Nairobi)
Mandondo - Food for the gods (Nairobi) PDF Print E-mail
Thursday, 19 February 2009

A plate of Mandondo
A plate of Mandondo
The hotel is small, dirty and crowded. The cook is sweaty and the waiters break all catering rules. The food is cooked in very unhygienic conditions and in broad view. No one seems to mind. The orders for Mandondo just keep coming.

Where in the world?
The place is Ziwani, a neighbourhood whose name, a few years ago, was enough to send shivers down your spine. Time has passed, things have changed, half the ‘hood’s young population is in jail or six feet under, but two of the attractions remain as strong as ever, weed (cannabis sativa) and Mandondo.

Mandondo is just plain fried beans. Yep! Just plain fried beans served with chapati. Sounds simple enough, but there must be something in the way it’s prepared here coz it is so delicious that athletes, popular artistes and business people visit this ‘hood for the delicacy.

In the late 90's and early this century, when the Kenyan National team was on its finest form, its team members were daily customers. Jua Cali, the hugely popular artist, was also a regular. Other clients included policemen and gangsters ,from petty thieves and matatu touts all the way to hardcore robbers.

Mythical attraction
A while ago, word had it that Mandondo was what gave young men from Ziwani the energy and strength to be such ferocious fighters. People from other 'hoods flocked to one place, the Cantina Hotel, for a plate of the dish.

Price
Despite the high demand, the meal still suits those on tight budgets. A plate large enough to feed four, comfortably, costs Ksh.120 (1 Euro 20 cent), and usually all four will contribute to the cost of that plate (it’s rare to find one person paying for the full meal).

Imitation
The dish was introduced in the mid-eighties by a guy called Coaches, and he’s still doing good business. Others opened shop in other neighbourhoods, but only one of the newbies, Nyaga, has managed to attract as many clients as Coaches. Not surprisingly, Nyaga used to work for Coaches, before quitting to go it alone.

The saying in Ziwani goes: "Mandondo, though imitated, will never be like the original from Ziwani."

Related post
Street food, Nairobi

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written by Vincent Odhiambo, February 21, 2009
That Coaches guy must be a millionaire by now! Unless it is the coaches I know of Rowbow n Qoaches!

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